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Numerical model simulations of wave propagation and wave run-up on dikes with shallow foreshores
van Gent, M.R.A.; Doorn, N. (2001). Numerical model simulations of wave propagation and wave run-up on dikes with shallow foreshores, in: Hanson, H. et al. (Ed.) Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, June 11-15, 2001, Lund, Sweden. pp. 769-778
In: Hanson, H.; Larson, M. (Ed.) (2001). Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, June 11-15, 2001, Lund, Sweden. ASCE: Reston. ISBN 0-7844-0566-2. 1086 pp., more
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Document type: Conference paper
Keywords
    Numerical models
    Simulation
    Topographic features > Banks (topography) > Embankments
    Topographic features > Beach features > Foreshore
    Wave propagation
    Marine/Coastal
Authors  Top 
  • van Gent, M.R.A.
  • Doorn, N.
Abstract
    Shallow foreshores considerably affect wave propagation and hence wave run-up on coastal structures. This concerns for instance the evolution of wave height distributions and wave energy spectra between deep water and the toe of coastal structures. Based on numerical model investigations and physical model tests it was concluded that wave run-up and wave overtopping can best be described using wave conditions at the toe of the coastal structures, in particular using the wave period Tm-1,0′. With this wave period the effects of arbitrarily-shaped wave energy spectra on wave run-up and wave overtopping can be taken into account. In this paper estimates of wave conditions, including estimates of this wave period Tm-1,0′. are obtained using a spectral wave model and a time-domain Boussinesq-type wave model. Especially the applied Boussinesq-type wave model appeared to be appropriate for conditions with severe wave breaking on a shallow foreshore where also a considerable amount of energy is transferred to lower frequencies. Also wave interaction with the dike itself was modelled numerically.
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